
Thursday, October 28, 2010
Friday, October 22, 2010
Week 15: Goodbye Iceland

Today I flew to Copenhagen. Soon I’ll continue on through Moscow and finally arrive in Beijing on Wednesday morning. The second country of study in my Watson Fellowship, China, fast approaches. I feel some mixture of excitement and intimidation towards China’s megacities and burgeoning populations. To be sure, China will be radically different from Iceland.
For starters, the contrast between the energy systems of China and Iceland couldn’t be starker. Goodbye Iceland. Goodbye 100% renewable electricity. Hello Beijing. Hello Shanghai. Hello coal. Hello Three Gorges Dam. Hello two coal power plants added to the national grid per week. Two per week! Hello world’s largest investor in renewable energy technology. Hello 1.3 billion people. Hello hustle and bustle and relentless march of economic development.
Before departing Iceland I wrapped up all my loose ends. I finished a report on hydrogen sulfide emissions control technology for Landsvirkjun, the largest power company in Iceland. My hosts at Landsvirkjun arranged a farewell party at a local tavern, either signifying satisfaction with my work or good riddance. I can’t be sure which.
I also had a tasty farewell dinner with the Director of Sustainable Energy at Islandsbanki (Bank of Iceland), with whom I hope to continue various projects surrounding www.thinkgeoenergy.com.
Finally, I said farewell to the various folks I’ve met and lived with in Iceland. My buddy Hinrick drove five hours from Akureyri to say goodbye over one final dinner of Thai food (the Icelandic Thai population is burgeoning after Icelandic males experienced a brief infatuation with mail order brides). I also said a somber goodbye to all my new friends in the Salvation Army Guesthouse – the most international and cramped accommodations I’ve ever had the privilege to call home for one month. Never before (outside the UN) have Tajikistanis, Nigerians, Americans, Germans, Canadians, Colombians, Italians, Greeks, Poles, and countless other nationalities come together in such an energized, generally friendly, occasionally angry, and always physical manner. Imagine 20 people from all over the world waiting to cook on one of two stovetop burners – the line for dinner each night was an experience in and of itself. I spent many hours sampling the foods and ideas of all these different folks while bumping and shuffling about in a dim and tight kitchen.
Looking back on my last month in Reykjavik – “City of Fear” as rural Icelanders call it - I can say that I grew. I refined, updated, abandoned, and re-evaluated many of my opinions about energy. My personal strategies and goals moving forward have changed. Again, I found myself fighting the same old environment-economy-energy battle that I’ve wrestled with so many times before. I spent the last month with an overwhelming array of personalities spanning from staunch capitalists to communists, fundamentalist environmentalists to unrestrained industrialists, politicians, regulators, businesspeople, entrepreneurs, and a sampling of about twenty different world cultures. This bombardment forced me to see things in a new light. I wont delve too far into the specifics of my musings because they are private, in progress, and would constitute multiple essays each (not the kinds of things one simply tosses out without support, evidence, and argument). It will suffice to say that I’ve taken on a more pragmatic view, I think. However, I haven’t compromised my idealism so much as tempered it and redirected it within the confines of our imperfect world, our technology, our demand, and especially our financial system.
I’ll add that my musings in Reykjavik evolved naturally from my experiences, relationships, and observations. The focus of my time in the Icelandic capital was researching the technology and economics of hydrogen sulfide pollution control systems and evaluating carbon sequestration options for Landsvirkjun, but that was by no means my only source of learning. I gleefully participated in meetings with Japanese power plant manufacturers, geothermal investment bankers, and power plant designers. I toured a number of operating geothermal facilities. I attended lectures from international researchers in geology, engineering, and environmental protection. I also met and discussed with inventors, financiers, and developers from other energy industries like hydro, solar, gas, and coal.
One last thing. China doesn’t like people publishing details about their energy industry. Occasionally they imprison offenders, like the unfortunate American geologist who will be in Chinese jail for the next two years because he released information about some oil wells. I’ve decided it’s best not to risk a similar situation. Beyond that, I’ve heard that blogger.com is intermittently censored within China, so I probably wouldn’t be able to publish frequently if at all. Accordingly, this may be my last post until I land in Madrid come March.
In China I have plans in various stages of development/commitment to work with Shanghai Electric, Global Geothermal, Hysen International, Shaanxi Green Energy, tour two district heating facilities, attend meetings of the Beijing Energy Network, and much more. I’ll study Mandarin with private tutors, and will plan at least one rural trip to really experience the culture, see the contrast to urban life, and perhaps find some opportunities for a post-Watson return. Beijing, Shanghai, and Xian will probably be my home bases for one or two months each. My total time in China will be over four months. I have an apartment arranged in Beijing, which is where I’ll land at 9:50 on Wednesday. So exciting!
I want to thank everyone who has taken the time to read my blog, leave comments, email me thoughts, and support me during this year. I’ve received over 2,100 hits so far, which is pretty exciting for me. Don’t be alarmed if I don’t post here for a couple months. I’ll be back before you know it!
Sunday, October 3, 2010
Week 13: Riots, Millionaires, and Resource Wars

Last night Reykjavik erupted. I’m not talking about a volcanic event, but equally fiery and explosive protests outside parliament. I watched this demonstration while dining on lobster, lamb, and chocolate cake with Iceland’s “wealthiest self-made man,” according to the man himself. The experience felt utterly surreal as we pursued history, philosophy, and technology while thronging crowds broke the windows of parliament, ignited fires throughout the city’s center, launched fireworks at government buildings, clashed with riot gear clad police, and never once stopped beating their oil drums – the drum beat of revolutionary impulses.
Rewind to Saturday. I walked into one of the theaters hosting films from the Reykjavik International Film Festival. I bought my ticket for Oil Rock: The Story of Stalin’s Floating Caspian Oil City, and noticed a 50-something year old man, or more specifically, I noticed his bomber jacket. Exquisite. An American eagle patch screamed across the worn leather breast, other flags and patches adorned the arms, and a fluffy wool collar lay casually on the shoulders. Where can I get one? I started the conversation: “Great jacket.”
I left with the man’s number and a promise for dinner. Three days later he picked me up in his white BMW. “Before we eat, I want to show you something.” He drove me past various embassies in Reykjavik, then we doubled back towards a looming black building. “That’s the Chinese embassy. It is four times larger than the next largest embassy – the American embassy. What does China need such a large embassy for? Remember, there are only 300,000 Icelanders. What is China doing here?”
He explained his theories about global wars fought through markets and resources instead of armies, and about China’s investments in the aluminum smelters here (which consume 80% of Iceland’s energy). He told me about “buying friends,” and how he fears that Iceland will become a bargaining chip in the market/resource wars ahead. He pointed out Canada and America's similar interests in Icelandic smelters and geothermal resources. He seemed to know much more about these subject than the layperson might. His pattern of unusual insights – suspicion arousing insights - only strengthened through the night.
Over dinner I continually probed my new friend to discover his past, but he revealed very little. His family, business, and political positions remains shrouded. When I tried to turn our conversation towards my own projects, goals, and ideas he seemed equally uninterested. Instead, he steered me into the realm of understanding man. “You are here to learn something about energy and to make some decisions about your future and career, no? You say you want to avoid the mid-life realization that your efforts have been misguided, meaningless, or even destructive to this world. To make these decisions well – to really be effective – you must first understand man thoroughly." He demanded that I see my contemporaries clearly, that I see their darkness as well as their good.
We discussed falcon breeding and the historical implications of that industry. We explored the beauty and horrors of Thailand. We reviewed psychopathy, and how many psychopaths build high-powered careers. “People on a mission are sometimes the most dangerous type. They are the ones who think they must accomplish something, and they will stop at nothing to get what they want. You seem to be on that kind of mission. Keep it in control. Know why you are doing what you are doing.”
My friend ate his lobster by hand. He dug his fingers into the buttery meat, but managed to do so with a completely dignified and sophisticated aura. It seemed totally appropriate that a pile of translucent napkins should mount on the table’s surface. He ordered apple juice and told me that he has never once had a sip of alcohol. Outside I saw crowds overrun a police barricade and shatter the windows of parliament. The trapped politicians escaped through a secret tunnel instead of face the financial collapse-fueled mob.
At one point the man unexpectedly asked me to state my IQ score, and later he wanted very specific details about my athletic abilities, particularly in swimming and running. He extended numerous offers of connections along with an offer for more meetings before I leave Iceland for China. “Perhaps you can meet the Governor here,” he added. I felt increasingly bewildered by the whole experience.
I left the restaurant and stepped out into the middle of the protest's central barricaded area (we literally dined overlooking parliament). I found myself among police in full riot gear. “Icelandic Jibberish?!” “Sorry, I only speak English.” “How did you get behind the barricade?!” “I entered the restaurant before the protests started. Don’t worry, I’m a disinterested American, and I'm not really into the whole 'violent protest' thing anyway. I’ll go now.”
The police escorted me to the perimeter of the safe-zone. I stepped over the riot wall, ran past some flames, a man waving a skull and crossed bones pirate flag, and people firing flares at parliament, and dashed into my guesthouse.
Next morning: charred lawn and broken windows at Iceland's "Alping" parliament
Thursday, September 30, 2010
In Reykjavik and Infected
Saturday, September 18, 2010
Casual Day At The Office...


Monday, September 13, 2010
The Great Sheep Wrangle of 2010, or, Karmically Paying For What You Consume

One of my missions here in Husavik, should I choose to accept it, is to translate the expansive control panel at the power plant from Icelandic to English before an American company assumes proprietorship and operation of the facility. But I don't speak Icelandic.
My landlord, Ditta, is fluent in English and Icelandic. She has agreed to assist me in exchange for an equivalent amount of labor in gathering berries, moss, and sheep. I deemed this a fair trade. In fact, I replicated it with a different housemate who helped me translate French technical drawings in exchange for my services as her personal chef.

Each farm dispatched a group of horsemen numbered proportionally to the farm's number of sheep. These horseback herders joined forces last Thursday. They rode hard for three days to gather sheep from all the hills and dales in the area, and on the fourth morning they came blasting over a ridgeline with about 2,500 sheep bleating and stampeding their way into a massive corral of basaltic lava brick. The walls have been built and maintained by generations of farmers here. Each farm dedicates two days per year to the maintenance of this large and intricate pen.
Our horsemen, dressed in white shirt, red tie, and black pants, signal the event's inception with yells and whistles. Hundreds of farmers, friends and families all began marching in lines to send sheep flooding from one large area into a smaller area where they were identified by ear tags and hauled into the corresponding farm's section in the lava structure.
After Ditta's family found its 60 sheep, we marched them about three miles by foot along a country road. Two sheep collapsed of exhaustion, so we put them in the car. We finally deposited our sheep on a big green pasture, and retired to the farm house for waffles and jam (from the very berries I picked).


Each suggestion, despite its economic sensibility, seemed to upset or offend my host (below, middle). I slowly realized that the point of the rettir is not to efficiently aggregate sheep, but to aggregate culture. Historically, the rettir was the grandest social day of the year, and it remains so in many ways. I saw dancing, singing, local foods, old friendships, authentic costumes, traditional back-to-the-earth activities, and so much rich culture. Building the walls is a right, not a duty. The same goes for riding three days to collect the sheep - I've never seen such pride.


This all has implications for electrons. Not all of them are created equal, or rather, the consumption of one energy source is not equal to another. All energy sources have their problems and their advantages, but we aren't measuring them properly are we?
Just as my initial preference for efficient and streamlined herding would have destroyed the rettir's true value, our economic system's preference for low-cost energy output perversely incentivizes some bad energy choices. We currently operate the tractor delivered, metal pen enclosed, automatically sorted, and industrially butchered sheep herds of the electron world. Only in this case, we don't forfeit culture, but resource security, environmental quality, and sustainability.
Robert Kennedy said in a very poetic speech that "GDP measures everything except that which makes life worth living," and I finally know what he meant. He was absolutely right. The type of output also matters in addition to the volume of output.
In fact, we already monetize those fuzzy feelings. We've branded them "green," and our government has placed a regulatory premium on them through feed in tariffs, RPS standards, and poisonous emissions regulations. Perhaps the next step is to launch the Whole Foods of electricity - giving people the option to volitionally and proactively choose their energy source. I have a few ideas percolating on that front.
Saturday, September 11, 2010
Week 8: Boxing with Philosophers

I’ve chosen to shelter my feet with the handsome Elven slippers featured below.

Days like this lend themselves to mental wandering.
I have in my mind at this very moment a boxing match. Not just any fight, but something to rival Rocky II, something to top the Rumble in the Jungle, even more splendiferous than the Thrilla in Manilla. In the blue corner we find Adam Smith spraying menacing jabs and hooks through the air. The red corner contains a vicious Karl Marx bouncing spryly on his toes. The tension between these two philosophical heavy weights has slowly built until we arrive at this current moment – Madison Square Garden can’t possibly contain another spectator.
Ronald Reagan and Bill O'Reilly finish taping Adam’s fists; I think I just saw them hide some barbed wire in Adam’s left glove. Those guys will do anything to win. Is that Ayn Rand taking bets?
I look left and see Castro massaging Karl’s body – foreboding in its hairy corpulence. Friedman just broke a bottle and threatened Hu Jintao in the stands. This place is blowing up.
I’m down in the middle of the ring to referee this crazy thing, only, instead of the standard tuxedo I've opted for a chromatically equivalent coat of Siberian Tiger pelts. It looks awesome, trust me.
Jay-Z finishes the pre-fight show, and now we move onto the main event. The fighters tap gloves, I ring the bell, and our two brutish contenders crash into each other, clubbing with fists of economic zeal.
If I succeed in my main goal for this year, then I will be able to narrate the rest of this fight. How would the philosophical brawl play out in your mind?
The proposed goal of my fellowship was not to learn the specifics of power generation, but to build a philosophical foundation for my aspirations. Each experience I have out here should, theoretically, inform my idealistic and naïve quest to work towards a better energy system. Everything I see is a hook or jab or uppercut in this fight for my ideology.
I definitely tend towards the deregulated free market side of things, but I can't avoid the countless examples of scandal and corruption that could have been prevented through some stricter regulation and oversight, through a little less greed. BP might not have spilled that oil if it had just a bit more patience. Lehman might not have gone broke if it had just a bit more caution. Iceland might not owe $75 billion if it had given bankers just a few more rules.
You don't want to strangle businesses with rules, but it seems irresponsible to leave the door wide open for catastrophic failures like the financial crises (American and Icelandic). These really were examples of unrestrained greed causing major problems for everyone, even those completely detached from the reckless speculation (America) and corruption (Iceland).
This post is a silly way to describe something I wrestle with constantly. I project Adam Smith and his "dismal science" as an embodiment and validation of my selfishness. Marx is my avatar for selflessness. If I ever succeeded in building a power plant, what portion of my effort should be to make a buck, and what portion should be to improve the broader energy system? The answer probably dictates what kind of plant I'd build.
More importantly, is making a buck in this business mutually exclusive with helping the future? I'm out here to answer those questions - to find a personal balance between Adam and Karl. Again, I'd love to hear where you find your balance. Here are some of the examples that have batted my philosophical badminton ball around since landing here:
I’ve learned about the rampant corruption in Iceland’s privatized and deregulated banks. The idea was to increase the profitability and competitiveness of the banks by removing regulatory burdens and de-socializing the financial system. Unfortunately, Iceland's bankers opted for robbing Iceland’s banks from the inside beginning immediately after the deregulation and privatization in 2005. They shipped millions of dollars into offshore accounts then fled the country. Within three years the privatization had bankrupted Iceland’s three largest banks, which had to be bailed out by the government and foreign loans, thereby bankrupting the entire country.
The economic wreckage is incredible here. Imagine a national debt of 5 times GDP. I’ve seen a lot of kind families financially crushed by that scandal, the ensuing currency devaluation, and the investments that materialized to zero. At first I defended my first love, capitalism, and said, "that's not capitalism, it's just crime." I've slowly learned that the economic systems we choose set a tone for the population - economic philosophies affect people's goals, attitudes, and behaviors.
Deregulating the banks sent the message that banking is about making money, not protecting wealth. The result was profiteering taken to a wild and illegal extreme, but an extreme that didn't exist here before the privatization. The majority of Iceland's left-leaning population despises this kind of thinking, and they counter it with genuine community support, outreach, and kindness. My next post will illustrate this community cohesion.
The banking example has Smith against the ropes and Marx is brutalizing the Scotsman. But then Smith pulls a rope-a-dope, faking left with an example of greedy excess and coming up with the massive right hook of lowering costs and improving quality through competition.
I observe all these socialized energy companies with outrageously bloated overheads, unnecessarily opulent office buildings, careless employees, and unpunished mistakes. For example, imagine buying a new fleet of transformers for Reykjavik that don’t fit into their housing because you never bothered to measure – literally an “it’ll probably fit” mistake that costs millions of dollars. Now imagine not getting fired.
Nobody gets fired. The socialized businesses don’t go broke; they just take out more loans. Reykjavik Energy’s balance sheet is outrageous, and it would have been dead and buried a year ago if it were private. Iceland's weird brand of socialized capitalism means that many businesses have no incentive to conserve or stay lean. People assume regulation will take care of the system, but it clearly doesn't. There's no incentive to do better than expected, even when expectations are pretty low. Everyone just notices a slightly higher energy bill to offset the utility’s lackluster performance.
Marx is bleeding, wheezing, spitting out teeth.
I observe companies hamstringed by overregulation, and Smith momentarily gains the upper hand. Just then I see some contractors cut corners to save costs at the expense of a quaint fishing village’s energy infrastructure. Marx slugs Smith with the local economic collapse that followed this shortsighted profiteering.
This fight keeps raging, and I’m just trying to figure out what to think. I see sloppy footwork in both sides of the ring. I also see admirable qualities in both fighters. The answer must be somewhere in the middle, but where?
I’m beginning to envision Marx and Smith both collapsed on the floor, equally exhausted from so many rounds of uncompromising brutality. Just as I reach for the mic to call this fight a disappointing draw, Stephen Harper dashes out, snatches the title belt from my hands, and runs away back to his utopian blend of efficient free markets and kind social systems.
Personally, this philosophical brawl keeps my ambitions in check. There are many legal ways to take advantage, to deceive, and to advance yourself by throwing another under the proverbial bus. But after you live with someone who was just run over by that bus, you clearly see that "legal" doesn't mean "right." Recklessly shoveling out sub-prime mortgages, even if you break no laws, is still wrong. Crippling the environment, even by legal means, is still wrong. Conversely, doing a little good, even if it’s less profitable, is still good.
I think that the next ten months will really help me hone in on this philosophical balance point.
